Expert Behaviorist for Aggression, Anxiety & Reactivity

Leash Reactivity Β· Resource Guarding Β· Fear & Anxiety Β· Separation Β· Aggression

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You're not alone

Andrew helped shape a very unruly, slightly aggressive black lab into a very loving family pet. Paisley is learning her boundaries and how to abide by them more everyday.
Vickie Jestice

Training In Action

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The Problems I Work On Every Day

Most behavior problems are a regulation problem, not an obedience problem: your dog isn't bad, it just learned one move that works. I come to your home because that is where the triggers actually live, and I'm usually working with several dogs in your exact situation at any given time.

Leash Reactivity

Barking and lunging at other dogs is often frustration, not aggression, and it's self-rewarding: the other dog leaves, so it worked. I teach a new default, moving away with you instead of exploding forward.

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Separation Anxiety

Nonstop barking, destroying the crate, whining that starts the moment you grab your keys. Life can't be ending every time you leave. We build real confidence about alone time, right where the panic happens.

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Resource Guarding

Growling over food, toys, the couch, even a favorite person. Guarding compounds: it works in one spot and spreads to others. I give you safe, clear steps to set that boundary before it escalates.

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Fear & Anxiety

Shaking through storms, hiding from strangers, a dog who only trusts one or two people. I focus on giving that nervous energy somewhere to go, so your dog can look to you for guidance and actually relax.

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Aggression & Bite History

Snapping, lunging, maybe they've already bitten another dog or a person, and you're walking on eggshells in your own home. I work these cases every day, and improvement is the norm when we set clear rules and hold them consistently.

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From First Call to Lasting Change

  1. Free phone consultation

    We start with your dog's background and story. Then I walk you through how I train, what we'll work on, and how it all works, including pricing, payment plans, and the package I'd recommend. I'm a coach here to teach and guide you, and I'm always here for advice and feedback.

  2. First session

    We meet at your house. We go back over everything together, and I see it all in your world, where the behavior actually happens, so I get an even better understanding of what's happening and why. Then we start the foundation: building the behaviors you want, stopping the ones you don't. You leave with specific skills to practice: 10 to 20 minutes, 3 to 5 days a week.

  3. Follow-up sessions

    Every 2 to 3 weeks. You do the work between visits, then we do three things: troubleshoot what came up and adjust, build on the skills you have or add new ones, and keep moving toward your goals. Dogs are moldable. Usually it's just that the human hasn't had the right information yet.

  4. Lifetime Support Guarantee

    Every program includes call, text, and email support for as long as you have your dog. Any hands-on sessions down the road are paid, but I'll always be honest about whether you actually need one.

How Often Do We Train

Homework built into your life

You don't need an hour a day. You just need 10 to 20 minutes practicing specific skills that fold into your routine. No drilling: short, engaging work that's actually fun to do with your dog, practiced around real events. The doorbell stuff when the doorbell rings, the leash stuff on walks you already take.

Sessions are every 2 to 3 weeks on purpose: low pressure for your dog, for you, and for me. You get plenty of time to practice and feel confident. Three to five short reps a week isn't a New Year's goal, but a habit you can keep.

What every package includes

  • One-on-one, in-home training sessions, about an hour long.

  • A plan tailored to you, your dog, your household, and your lifestyle.

  • Every dog in your home included, with no per-dog charge.

  • Unlimited text, call, and email support between sessions.

  • Equipment guidance: what to use and how to use it.

  • I come to you, anywhere in the Kansas City metro.

  • Lifetime support: text, call, and email, plus another session if we ever need it.

Package pricing

4 in-home sessions
$900
Mild issues and a solid foundation
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Four 1‑hour in‑home sessions

$900

For mild behavioral issues and dogs who need a foundation. We usually focus on 2 to 3 things over about 2 months.

  • All the dogs in your home included
  • A custom plan for your lifestyle
  • Unlimited text, call, and email support
  • Equipment guidance
  • Lifetime support
6 in-home sessions
$1,100
Medium behavioral cases
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Six 1‑hour in‑home sessions

$1,100

For medium cases where we work on 3 to 4 things, like recall and impulse control, with time to make them reliable. Around 3 months.

  • All the dogs in your home included
  • A custom plan for your lifestyle
  • Unlimited text, call, and email support
  • Equipment guidance
  • Lifetime support
8 in-home sessions
$1,300
Severe behavioral cases
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Eight 1‑hour in‑home sessions

$1,300

My most reserved package, for severe cases like biting or fighting in the home. The most time to work through serious behavior safely. Around 4 months.

  • All the dogs in your home included
  • A custom plan for your lifestyle
  • Unlimited text, call, and email support
  • Equipment guidance
  • Lifetime support

Frequently asked questions

Just need one session?
A single in-home session is $300.
What if we need more sessions than our package?
You just pay the difference. If you start with the 4-session package and your dog needs 6, you pay the price difference between the two packages. Never a new package, never a penalty.
How do payments work?
One payment, or split it in two: half at the start, half in the middle of your package.
Do you travel outside the Kansas City metro?
Yes, for a $25 travel fee per visit that covers drive time.

Not sure which package to choose?

Free phone consultation

An Investment in Yourself and Your Dog

Training your dog the right way is an investment: your peace of mind, your dog's future, and honestly your next dogs too. I know my training isn't cheap, but sometimes you have to invest to get the results you want. My program isn't right for everyone, and that's okay. If it sounds like a fit, let's schedule a consultation. If it's not, no hard feelings.

Meet Andrew

When you hire Good Dogz KC, you get me every session, not a rotating staff. You're paying for quality, educated information: not from somebody who's still learning, but from an expert who's been doing this with dogs of all ages, sizes, and breeds for nearly seven years. I've worked with thousands of dogs, I've had hundreds of dogs board and train at my house, and I've lived with them around kids, around other dogs, navigating new places, new houses, and new people. I have a training program that works.

What I care about isn't an obedient robot. It's a calm dog and a household that finally feels easy. Obedience is a great tool, but it's skill-based; it doesn't manage how a dog feels under stress. So I start with the emotional side, helping your dog actually settle, and use clear, fair boundaries to get there.

If you're reading this, you already know you're the one who needs the education. It's not that you can't do it; you've never been taught the skill. So how could you teach it to your dog? My program starts with a foundation and moves into harder and harder things as we progress, keeping it low stress. Progress happens over time; it's behavior. And these are normal things: every dog owner is dealing with something, and all dogs, just like humans, have things they could use help with.

My job is to be your coach and your mentor. I'm never going to tell you "you have to do this." I'm a resource and a springboard: I'll give you advice, tell you honestly what's worked and what hasn't across the thousands of dogs I've trained, and I'll always be in your corner. My goal is to see you and your dog succeed. This is an investment, and it isn't cheap, but you'll learn a skill that lasts the rest of your dog's life and every dog after: from then on it's troubleshooting, not starting from scratch.

Learn More
Storm went from being insanely reactive losing her mind over everyone, every dog pulling me all over the place barking and in defense mode ready to go after anyone we would come across. … She has completely transformed I finally feel like I can breath and I’m not struggling or scared to be around distractions anymore!
C Lauren

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Behavior Training FAQs

What families ask before starting behavior work.

Do you use e-collars or shock collars? Is that safe?
Yes, I use a modern remote training collar, and the way I use it probably isn't what you're picturing. Positive reinforcement and rewards are how I teach your dog anything new, but rewards alone can't set a boundary or stop an unwanted behavior. That's where the collar comes in. A lot of the time it's a low-level signal, like a tap on the shoulder asking your dog to come back to me, not an electric fence cranked all the way up. We find the level your dog just barely notices, never one that hurts, and I test it on you first so you know exactly what your dog feels. It's introduced gently after the first session or two, not on day one, and if it isn't the right tool for your dog, we don't use it.
Is my dog too far gone? Should I rehome him?
I'll never judge you for asking, and it isn't fair to live scared in your own home. But almost nothing is too far gone. I do this every day with dogs that are biting people, and right now I'm working with several in the exact situation you're describing. Your dog isn't bad, he learned that getting big and making space works, and nobody ever taught him another option. We teach him a better one, move away, settle, look to you, and we hold the line until it's a habit. I'll give you my honest read once I meet him, and most of the time there's a real path forward.
My dog is great with me, it's just guests or other dogs. Why?
That's really common. A dog who feels like nobody's handling the situation will try to handle it himself, usually by barking, lunging, or worse. Once you step in and guide him, he doesn't have to. On the leash, a lot of that is frustration rather than aggression: the leash is a barrier, he can't get to the other dog, and it comes out as barking and pulling. I teach your dog what to do at the end of the leash and when someone comes to the door, and I teach you how to be the one who sets that boundary so he can finally relax.
We tried training before and it didn't stick. Why would this be different?
You're not the only one who's told me that. A lot of group classes and purely-positive programs are great at teaching sit and stay, but they can't actually set a boundary or stop a behavior, so the reactivity and the guarding keep right on happening at home. And they happen in the wrong place, a room full of other dogs instead of your house where the real problem lives. I work one-on-one, in your home, on your dog's actual triggers, and I teach you how to hold the line after I leave. You've already done more than most people, you just haven't been shown this part yet.
Do you use e-collars / "shock collars"? Is that safe?
Yes, I use an e-collar. It's a communication tool, like a tap on the shoulder: a leash for when your dog is off leash. It's not punishment and it's not a forever tool; it's there to help your dog build boundaries while we train. It has three core functions: a low-level stim that guides your dog like a leash (come back to me), a higher adjustable level, and a vibrate that teaches your dog to move away from things they shouldn't get into. I use it for recall, off-leash walking, boundary setting, and stopping unwanted behaviors like barking or digging. The level is Goldilocks, like a hot stove: your dog has to notice it's on, but it can never be painful, and it can't be so low they don't care. Just enough for them to pick a different choice. Pair that with a positive path that still gets them what they want, and your dog learns there are two avenues to the same result. Over time their brain naturally rewires toward the behaviors we want.
Will this actually work for my dog? Is my dog too far gone?
That's up to how hard you want to work for it. All dogs, just like humans, can change; how far they go depends on how committed you are. I've had really hard behavioral cases do phenomenally well because the owners put in the work: they invested in themselves, invested in their dog, spent the time, and succeeded. If you want results without putting anything in, you'll fail. That's why I build training into your everyday life. I'm a busy father with kids, my own dogs, and client dogs, so I know exactly how important your time is: 10 to 20 minutes, 3 to 5 times a week. You don't need an hour a day and you don't have to train every day. You just have to be consistent over time, with guidance and expertise on what to do next. And for what it's worth, rescues with unknown histories are most of my work, and age isn't a wall (dogs aren't even mentally mature till around three).
We tried training before and it didn't stick.
Common, and it makes sense. Group classes teach your dog a cue ("sit," "stay"); they don't teach you how to hold a boundary. And for a lot of dogs, a group class is just too much: they're past their threshold and can't pay attention. It's like taking your kid to a playground and trying to teach them math. That's not setting them up for success. Group classes are great for dogs that can already handle that environment, but if your dog hasn't learned that skill yet, you're going to fail. That's why I start training in your house: fewer distractions, so we can practice and build a solid foundation. Then we work your neighborhood as your dog gets confident, then bigger and more chaotic environments: more stimulation, more dogs, more real life. Laying the foundation is everything.
How often are sessions, and how much homework is it?
Sessions are every 2 to 3 weeks, on purpose, so you're never overwhelmed and the change has time to stick (it's reps in real life between sessions, not a cram). Homework is about 10 to 20 minutes a few days a week, built into your normal routine and practiced in the moments the behavior already happens (the walk, the doorbell, dinnertime), not an hour of drilling sits and downs. As for sessions and cost: packages are 4, 6, or 8 one-hour in-home sessions, most people start with 6, and all the dogs in your home are included. When you're ready, you can either schedule a free phone consultation, or pick your package up above and sign up right away.